There’s something to be said for running
away from one’s problems. Specifically, the following text.
In times of personal crisis, the
prospect of getting away from absolutely everything is highly attractive. I
like to believe there’s something positive to be gained from packing up
and absconding to some far away place, not permanently, but for what you’d call
a lost weekend or similar expression of self-indulgence. At minimum, this is
the act of clearing one’s head, but ideally it’d also bring some clarity of
purpose or contentment. By escaping all the factors and
circumstances that define a life and diving into total randomness, one might
discover meaning, even wisdom, in the chaos.
My lost weekend was just a Thursday. Immediately
following a break-up and a number of work opportunities all simultaneously and
meaningfully cratering, I decided to get away from London for a while. The next day, before
dawn, I boarded a train for the city of York, some 200 miles north.
All I really knew about York is that it
was ruled by Vikings in the Middle Ages. During this period, the city we now
know was called the Kingdom of Jorvik. As you’d expect, a big part of the
city’s tourism is Viking stuff. Vikings! What could be better? The uncomplicated
psyche and fundamental home truths of primal Viking life might be the perfect
thing to cut through my specifically modern problems.
For tourists, one of York’s biggest
draws is the Jorvik Viking Centre, which boasts a thorough and vivid recreation
of a village straight out of Viking times. “Come face to face with a Viking,” it is promised. Visitors access this medieval village via time car, named of
course for its time-travelling properties.
I head for the Jorvik Viking Centre in
the late morning. It’s when I, as a lone adult male, get in line behind an
entire classroom of French schoolchildren, that I start to think this might be
weird.
Once the thirty children have all been processed, I buy a ticket in the lobby. “Just one?” asks the woman
behind the counter. I confirm this is the case.
Before we arrive at the Viking village
itself, there’s a room downstairs that serves as a waystation between
the timelines. In this dimly lit chamber, there are a lot of placards and LCD
displays detailing the history of the Viking presence in York. Under our feet,
a glass floor reveals human bones and Viking trinkets, all discovered by an archaeological
dig in the last century, strewn through the dirt. The French children and their
chaperones meander around the room in small groups, cross-checking the
information on the walls with worksheets of Viking-related homework.
There’s some Viking Centre staff down
here too, all clothed in period Viking garb. I assume that this is the official
staff uniform but perhaps it’s an amazing coincidence. In the stairwell, two
Vikings flirt lightly. Another Viking wanders the floor. “Oh, feel free to ask
me any questions,” he announces vaguely to his dispersed audience. Ask a Viking
– what an opportunity! I note that nobody seems interested in taking him up on
his offer. In fairness, the only questions I can think to ask him – “Do you
ever feel like you’re just drifting?” “Have you ever been in love?” “Viking,
are you ever lonely?” – would not be appropriate in this academic setting.
A few words about the time car. It’s
less of a car, I can see now, than a big motorised seat attached to a ceiling
track. Not exactly the DeLorean. The time car is parked in a corner, where it
departs this waystation and enters a time tunnel. Admittance to the time car is governed
by another Viking. I make my way over to him, accidentally cutting in line
before two small French girls. (“Cut in front of me in the time car queue like
one of your French girls,” it is often remarked.)
“Just you, sir?” asks the Viking – like a viking would ever call
somebody sir.
“Yes.”
“Enter the time car.” He doesn’t say this.
To my disappointment, the time car will be ferrying me through the entirety of the village,
rather than just dropping me off discreetly from a block or two away. It runs on a
rail on a programmed course at a leisurely pace. My first Viking sighting on
this tour through time is two Viking kids playing in the mud, and at first I’m
shocked that this operation has roped in child actors. But as I draw closer I
realise that they aren’t real people in Viking suits, but automatons.
From there, I proceed down a receiving
line of animatronic Viking characters, each introduced in the very proper English tones of my
time car audio guide. I meet Sigurd the antler worker, Unni the woodworker, a couple of fishermen, a blacksmith and some assholes arguing about what to have for dinner
(Some things never change, notes my narrator wryly). As I ride past, they speak
a sentence in Old Norse and jerk around a little bit, affecting the motions of
their purported trades. This goes on for about ten minutes. The whole
experience, I am told, is supposedly enhanced through the addition of
realistic and unsanitary Viking odours, but actually the gift shop I visit
afterwards smelled worse by a significant and nauseating margin.
Before the ride ends, there’s a hell of
a denouement in store. We come to one last Viking, squatting in an open-air medieval
toilet and straining audibly to take a dump. Unsuccessfully, I might add. Rounding
him in the time car, I hear him groan and grunt and fart a little bit. Then the
ride is over, and an elderly woman in the middle of her knitting helps me to disembark the time car. I leave the Viking Centre quickly.
That’s pretty much the whole story.
Having left home despondent and in search of some kind of personal illumination
or epiphany, what I get – sometimes, all you ever get – is a robot Viking
taking a shit. And I never quite stop thinking about this toilet-bound Viking,
this poor guy. Consider what defines his existence. He was built to try and do one thing –
one very particular, disgusting thing – yet no matter how hard he tries, he is,
by cruel design, incapable of ever achieving that goal. His life is
Lucy Van Pelt pulling the football away from Charlie Brown. He is trapped forever on the
cusp of almost there. So he squats in
the corner, in an Ouroboros prison of unfulfillment, a textbook failure for
generations of children to laugh about when they pass by, and whenever they
might think of him.